Shanty: Goin’ Downy Ocean

Like many Marylanders, I grew up going to Ocean City. We didn't "summer" there yearly, but I've been more times than I can count. That being said, when I think of beaches, I think of kitschy boardwalk attractions, bright pink t-shirts with airbrush designs, and white people sporting mullets who may also be wearing t-shirts that brag their love of the confederate flag/being a redneck. Throw in some seagulls and Thrashers fries and you have Ocean city. It informed my concept of "going to the beach."

Sarah and I drove down there today because she had never been. Nothing has changed.

Rehoboth, where we are staying, is upscale by contrast. Still beachy, but clean. All the usual suspects—The Candy Kitchen, Kohr Bros., etc. are present and accounted for—but they've thrown in a legitimate British Fish & Chips spot, cafes, bookstores, and sushi, all while paying legitimate attention to the overall design of the store fronts. There are a variety of accessible, appealing sit-down restaurants; there are a good number of less casual dining options, and enticing beach hut establishments, too. There's also a boardwalk (not as long as OC's), so you do get the full beach experience. But I didn't expect to be charmed, to find it devoid of every less than desirable element I listed above. Hell, I haven't even seen those scavenger birds about…

I don't know if this has always been the vibe at Rehoboth—I've only been one other time in my life—but the town has stayed ahead of the money curve. Fresh, modern rental properties are going to draw better-heeled summer tenants, I suppose. Better-heeled renters and summer residents will mean the town has the means to pay better attention…

But, it's not like Ocean City is any less expensive. I'm sure those ramshackle motels built circa 1940 go for hundreds a night during high season, but may or may not be air conditioned and may or may not smell like mildew. Sure, I saw some newer looking places, but not enough. That strip of highway that leads "downy ocean" as Baltimoreans say, is stuck somewhere in 1970. The view from my car window looked just like it did when I was 10. And it already looked sad then.